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A morning in Galle Fort

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Start at the lighthouse while the light is still low and walk the ramparts anticlockwise. You will pass locals doing the same circuit, cricket on the green inside the walls, and the sea on your left the whole way round.

Drop off the wall into the grid of Dutch-era streets and the fort changes character: shuttered houses, a working mosque, a few galleries, and shopfronts that have been there a great deal longer than the boutiques between them.

By nine it is hot and the coaches have arrived. That is the moment to be sitting down somewhere with a fan and a cold drink, which is the other thing the fort is good at.

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