When to visit: the two monsoons, explained

The south-west monsoon brings rain to Colombo, Galle and the west coast roughly from May to September. The north-east monsoon does the same to Trincomalee and the east roughly from November to February. There is no month in which the whole island is wet.

That means the question is not when to come but where to go when you do. December to March suits the south and west and the hill country. May to September suits the east. The shoulders either side are quieter and cheaper, and the rain, when it arrives, tends to come in the afternoon and leave again.

The hills keep their own weather regardless. Pack something warm for anywhere above a thousand metres, whatever the forecast says about the coast.

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