Eating your way through Colombo

Rice and curry is not one dish. It is a plate of rice surrounded by however many curries the kitchen is making that day — dhal, jackfruit, beetroot, something with coconut, a sambol sharp enough to wake you up. Take a little of each rather than a lot of one.

Hoppers are a breakfast food and a late-night food and not much in between. The bowl-shaped pancake with an egg in the middle is the one to start with. String hoppers are a different thing entirely and come with curry.

Kottu is the sound before it is the meal: two blades on a hot plate, chopping roti and vegetables and whatever else into something that is best eaten standing up. Follow the noise after ten at night and you will not go far wrong.

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