What to pack for the hill country

The temperature drop catches people out every week. Above about a thousand metres the evenings are genuinely cold, and guesthouses rarely have heating because for most of the year they do not need it.

One warm layer and one waterproof will cover it. Everything else you need on the island is thin and quick-drying, because the humidity at sea level means nothing thick ever dries properly.

Shoes matter more than clothes. Temple visits mean taking them off repeatedly, walks mean wet grass before dawn, and the combination argues for something you can slip on and do not mind getting damp.

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